Sewing-machine



Patented oet. 19, 1920.

5 SHEETS-SHEET l. C)

A. EPPLER. SEWING MACHINE.

` APPLICATION FLLED NOV.'27. 1916. 1,355,824.

A. EPPLER.

SEWING. MACHINE.

APPLLCATION man N.ov.27. 1915.

Patented Oct. 19, 1920.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 2 .Sw QQ A. EPPLER.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED N,o,v.'21. 191e.

Patented 001.1111920.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

A. EPPLER. SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED NM-ZTI 1916 1,355,824. Patented oct. 19,1920.

5 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

A. EPPLER. SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATLON FILED NOV.27| 1916.

y1,355,6324.' y Patented o@t.19,19`20.

5 SHEETSSHEET 5.

srArEs PATENT orrlci.v

ANDREW EPPLER, OF LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOB, BY MESNE ASSIGNMENTS,

''ICITED MACHINERY' CGRPGRATION, QF PATERSON, NEWT JERSEY, A COR-PORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

rentner.-

yApplication led November 27, 1916.

10 all wil/0m 'it may concern.

Be it known that I, ANDREW Eroman, a citizen oit the United States,residingl at Lynn, in the county oit Essex and State of hlessachnsetts,have invented certain nevT and useful improvements in Sewing-lilachines;and l do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exactdescription ot the invention, such as will enable others skilled in theart to which it apperteins to make and use the same.

This invention relates particnlarl,7 to sewing-machines of the typeemployed to sew together the upper and the sole ot a' turnshoe, or theupper, insole and Welt ot a Welt-shoe, although certain features ot theinvention may be applicable to sewing-machines et other types.

@ne object of the invention is to improve the operation ofthebaclr-gage, or the combined bach-gage and welt-guide, commonlyYemployed in machines ot the type .in question. This member is commonlyretracted 'trom the Work during the teed-movement, and is then advancedinto, and locked in, -fing'agement with the shoe-upper so as. to supportthe Work during; the retreating; movement of the needle. Owing to thevariations in the thickness ot the Worlr thev advancing movement ol thehaelt-gage must occur through varying distances, and eccordingly aspring is commonly used tor the purpose, While the retracting movementis produced by cam-actuated mechanism. 35

ln certain Well-known machines, the re tracting-mechsnism is providedwith a clutch-device operable in a direction to retract the baclrwgage,and movable always through a xed distance. rlhis mechanism acts toinitiate the retracting movement n- Ways at a given point in the cycleot o x erations ot the machine, and to retract the back-gage always to eiiXed distance from the Work, regardless ot the thickness or". the Workand the resnltiim` initial po. .ition the ack-gage. lt is also providedwith means tortripping` the clutch-device at the 'forward end of itspath of movement, so

as to leave the back-gage Vtree to advance,

under the influence ot its spring., bevond the position which itoccupied at the commencem Specification of Letters Patent.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Patented Oct. 19, 1920.

Serial No. v133,-25.

either in place of, or in additiontmthe usuel means for tripping theclutch-device at the forward end ot its path. In ord hoivever, that thebach-frage may he still controlled and retained in retract-err tion atthis time, poirier-actuated means are provided for the purposdy andthese means are arranged to control the advancing movement ot theback-gage throughout the later part of the movement, during whichbach-gege comes into engagement with the Work.

By the arrangement just, described. it is insured that the beck-gageshall never enthe Work While under uncontrolled spring-actuatedmovement, as occur in a machine of' he previous construction described,and thus one cause ot possible hammering is eliminator. Anotheradvantage of the present construction pertains partico.- larly to theuse of trictional or roller-v clutch-devices. When a clutch-device ofthis type is employed it tends to become bound, While retracting theleach-gagev aga-inst the resistance of the advancing-spring, so that asensible torce is required to loosen the parts, and if this torce isexerted against theback-gage et the moment of its impact against theWork the tendency to hammering` is accentuated. In the presentconstruction the clutch-device is tripped at the rear end ot its path ofoperation, as betere stated, and since it Vdoes not act to restrain theadvancing movement or" the back-gage, by reasonot the provision ot othermeans tor that purpose, the clutch is never bound or set at the momentwhen the baclegage bodying the present invention, looking from theright, and Fig. 2 is a side-elevation lool;- ing from the left. Figs. 3and 4 are, respectively, a left-hand side-elevation and a planview ofportions of the mechanism including particularly the means :foractuating the Y baclegage, these figures being on a larger il O scalethan Figsi and 2. Fig. 5 is a detail View, in section, of the adjustableconnection between certain parts oi the back-gage mechanism. Fig. 6 is adetail-view, in letthand side-elevation, showing particularly the partsof the mechanism tor actuating the looper and the thread-fingers. Fig. 7is a detail-view of the same parts in side-eleva tion, looking from theright, with certain portions in vertical-section. Fig. 8 is adetail-view, partly in vertical section, of a portion of the means forsupporting and heating the looper. Fig. 9 is a front-elevation of partsof the machine, including particularly the mechanism tor supporting andguiding the looper and for heating the looper and the channel-guide.Figs. l0 and 11 are fragmentary views, in side elevation andfront-elevation` respectively, illustrating the operation of certain ofthe sewinginstrumentalities, including' the thread-tingers, these partsbeing shown exaggerated in size; and Figs. l2 and l?) are similar viewsshowing the parts in a different position.

The invention is illustrated as embodied in a sewinganachine of the typeemployed in producing the inseam ot' a welted shoe or a turn-shoe, andthe illustrated machine is adapted particularly 'for sewing turnshoes,being provided with a back-gage but no welt-guide. In its generalconstruction and mode of operation the machine is similar to thatdisclosed in United States Letters Patent to Andrew Eppler, No.1,108,560, issued August i914, and accordingly the machine will bedescribed only in so far as is necessary Yfor an understanding of thepresent invention.,

The illustrated machine is provided with the usualsewing-instrumentalitics, includ in@ a curved hooked heedle 16, a looper18, a reed-point 20, a channeleguide 22, a backn 24 and a back-rest 26.rEhe mechanism is actuated bya cam-shaft 2S bearing the usual disk-cams-The me-fhanism for actuating and control lingV the backgage 24, in whichcertain. features of the present invention are embodied, is shownparticularly in Figs. 2. 2l, 4 and 5. rThe back-gage is formedintegrally with the forward end of a lever 30, and this lever issupported, at an intermediate point, by

means of a second lever 32, which is provided, at its upper end with anintegral stud 34. This stud turns in a bearing in a member 86 of thestationaryV trame of the machine. The rear end of the lever 30 issupported by means oit' a roller 38, which is journaled thereon, thisroller being free to move forwardly and rearwardly in an inclinedguideway 40 which is iiXed on the Jframe of the machine. The levers 30and 32 are pivotally connected by means of a stud 42, which is fixed inthe lever 32 and turns in a bearing in the lever 30. As shown in Fig. 5this stud is eccentric, so that by turning it into and fixing it inditferent'positions in the lever 32 the lever 30 may be raised orlowered to adjust the baclegage vertically. n

It will be observed that the stud 34k of the supporting-lever 32 is solocated that the l swinging movements of this lever cause its lower endto move in an arc which is downwardly and forwardly inclined, and thatthe rear end of the back-gage lever 30 isguided in a similar path by theguide-way 40. In consequence of this arrangement the backgage 24 movesin a slightly curved downwardly and forwardly-inclined path, whichcorresponds approximately to a portion of the path of movement oi' theneedle 16so that the back-gage remains in proper operative relation withthe needle in all positions'in Y which it may engage the slice which isbeing sewed. At the same time the angular position of the back-gage ismaintained practically invariable throughout its `'forward and rearwardmovements, so that the angle of presentation or" the back-gage to theslice is always the same.

Advancing movements the back-gage are produced normally by the action ofa spring 44. The Spring is coiled around a stud 45 on the frame, asshown in Fig. l, while its upper end bears against a pin 46 projectingfrom the back-gage lever 30,

and thus tends to thrust vthis lever torwardly.

The back-gage is retracted, and its'advancing movement is controlled, bypowerv actuated mechanism. For this purpose a V horizontal slide-guide46 is provided on the main portion 50 ot the frame of the machine, andVa slide 52 moves in this guide. The slide is connected with the lever 32by means ot a link 54 in the form or" a flat straight bar. The rear endof the bar is pivotally connected with the slide by means ofali-enlarged head 56 on the bar, which fits closely but turns in acorresponding recess in the yforward end of the slide. The forward endot the is pivoted to the lever 32 by means Vott a stud 58. This stud isliXed in a vertical slot in the lever, and it may be adjusted toditierent positions therein so as to vary the amplitude of the movementsimparted to the back-gage by means of the power-mechanism- Cam-mechanismemployed to provide to embrace and slide upon the bar 511, beingretained thereon by a back-plate 68 screwed to the body (Fig. 4).. Theclutch-body is provided with a recess 70 in which a roller 72 is carriedin contact with the bar 54e, and this recess is inclined, as shown inFig. 3, so that when the clutch is moved rearwardly the roller .tends towedge between the bar and the inclined surface of the recess, and thusto grip the bar and cause it to move rearwardly with the clutch. Thisaction is facilitated by a spring 74 seated in the clutch-body andengaging the roller. The roller is retained in the recess TO by means ofa cover-plate 7G which is screwed to the clutch-body.

The clutch is connected with the .cam-lever 60 by means of a linlr 78,so that the camlever imparts reciprocating movements of invariableamplitude to the clutch at definite times vin the cycle of operationsofthe machine. Accordingly the clutch, at the beginning of itsrearward'movement, seizes the bar 5d and thus imparts a rearwardmovement to the back-gage at a definite point in the cycle of operationsof the machine, this point being determined as shortly before thecommencement of the operative movement of the feed-mechanism. The clutchalso retracts the back-gage through a. definite distance, this distancebeing such. as is sufficient in all cases to remove the baclrsgage .fromcontact with the shoe and hold it clear of the shoe during` the feedingand swinging vement thereof.

order to trip the clutch, so as to leave the back-gage freel to advanceas far as may be necessary in each case to rengage the shoe, atrip-lever 80 is pivoted to theclutch-body and provided with a finger88, which is arranged to engage the roller 72. A spring 90, which isseated in the clutch-body, engages the lower end of the trip-leverandnormally holds the lever in inoperative position with a stop-lug 8l,formed on the lever, in engage.-

lll

ment with the cover-plate 76. A trip-plateV @il is fixed to the frame ofthe machine in such a position that a rearward projection 92 thereonengages the trip-lever near the extremity of the forward movement of theclutch, so that the trip-lever is swung upon O'e through the clutch-bodysufficiently to cause the finger 88 to press the roller 72 rearwardlyand n release it from wedging-cngagement I`with the bar 54. If at thistime the baclegage has.

not yet encountered the surface of the shoe the spring sa can continueto move the gage forwardly until. it is pressed against the work. Y

so far described the back-gage actuating mechanism, except for detailsof forni and construction, is substantially the same in organization andmode of operation as that disclosed in the said Patent No. 1,108,560.A.. .feature of the present invention, however, resides in the provisionof means foi-.trip- 'ping the clutch at the rear end of its path ofmovement. For this purpose the trip-lever S0 is provided with anupwardly-extending arm 82 which cooperates with av shoulder 84e formedon a stationary member 86 of the frame of the machine. 'Vhen thisshoulder is encountered the trip-lever is rocked so as to cause thefinger 88 again to press back the roller 72 and thus release the bar 54.

It will be apparent that when the clutch-V lever is tripped by the meanslast described it is necessary to control the back-gage by means otherthan the clutch, in order that it may not be thrust forwardly at once bythe spring ail. Accordingly the slide 52 is provided with two lugs 96and 98, while the stud 100, which pivotally connects the camlever 60 andthe link 78, is extended inwardly vto cooperate with these lugs thusforming a lost motion connection between theV cam lever and the slide.1When the clutch is tripped by the action of the shoulder 8a the springad tends to move the lia-.cligage forwardly, but this movement isarrested by the engagement of the lug 96 with the stud 100, as shown inFigs. and 4i. The back-gage is thus held retracted until the proper timefor its advancing movement, and this latter movement is then controlled.positively by the cam-mechanism, this con trol enduring until thebaclegage reaches the surface of the shoe, regardless of the ei;- tentof the advancing movement. lf the back-gage encount rs the shoe in amore inward position than that from which it was last previouslyretracted, owing to the fact that the feed-movement has brought athicker part of the work into operative position, the shoe will beencountered before the completion of the forward movement of theclutch-device, and in this case a free relative movement of theclutch-device will occur after the movement of the bar 54 has beenarrested. @wing to the fact, however, that the clutch hasbeen'previouslytripped and has not in the meantime performed Vany holding function uponthe bar, Vthis relative movement can occur without any substantialtendency of the clutch .to add to the forces by which the baclegage isadvance position, the clutch is tripped by the action ofthe trip-plate9st so that the forward movement of the har 5.4 may be continuedv ig flthe worl,

In the normal operation or the machine the lastdescribed feature ofoperaion, namely, the tripping of the clutch by the plate 9e and thecontinued forward m vement of the bar 54; thereafter, will not occur,and, in fact, it is one of the advantages of the present constructionthat this inode of operation is normally eliminated. lt will be apparentthat the engagement of the lug" 96 with the stud 100, duringtheadvancing until the bach-gage h as en wat movement of the parts,necessarily -iv-oh the fact that when the cam-lever has moved to itsforemost position the back-gage will have reached the foremost positionpossible within the limitations of the mechanism, so that in thepresence of a shoe the forward movement of the back-gage mustnecessarily have been interrupted by contact with they shoe, in everycase, before the vclutch has reached its foremost position. Accordingly,the trip-plate 94 performs no useful function in the normal ope ation ofthe machine. It is desirable, however, that the force of the spring lebe as light asv possible, in order to minimize the pressure of theback-gage against the work, and it may therefore occur that, owing toany unusual friction in the mechanism, the spring may fail to advancethe back-gage fast enough to maintain the lug 96 in engagement with thelll, ln such a case the operation of the ti' -plawx '94C permits the-full advance of the backgage which might otherwise not occur.

The lug l98 performs no function in the normal operation of themechanism, but it is useful to prevent accident to the mechanism. Incase the operator presses the shoe rearwardly against the back-gage, soas to move the latter to a retracted position, the lug 9S, by engagementwith the stud L90,

limits this movement to an amplitude si h that upon the succeeding`retracting operation of the back-gage mechanisms the parts immediatelyconnected with the shall not be drawn beyond the extreme rearwardposition to which they can be safely retracted. During the opertion ofthe machine the back slide 5d, which is normally moved forwardly by thespring to bring the back gage into engagement with the work, may notadvance owing to seine unusual friction. If the slide 34',- is heldagainst forward movement in this manner the projection 100 will strikeagainst the lug 98 formed on the slide 5e vand positively move saidslide forward so as to bring the back gage into engagement with thework.

` the latter within the slide-guide a gaoeinent with the slide '52 so asto crainp t 'the proper time. v v

The operation of the bach-gage mechanism as a whole is as follows:Assuming that the back-gage is in operative engagement with a shoe whichis being sewed, and that a stitch has heen set by the retractingmovement of the needle, the hach-gage isV unlocked by aretracting-movement of the wedge-member 102, and the cani-lever GO thenswings rearwardly for the purpose of retracting the back-gage'. At 'thecommencement of this movement the clutch-device is disengaged from thetrip-plate 94 so that the clutch acts to seize the bar i' and draw itrearwardly, this movement beginning'at a predetermined point in theVcycle of operations, shortly before the feed-movement of the shoe. Theaction of the clutch continues substantially throughoutV Vthe rearwardmovement of the cam-lever, so that the bach-gage is retracted through adefinite distance regardless of the exact'position which it occupied atthe beginning of the movement. Finally, the clutch is tripped the rearextremity of the movement ofV ther, and this controlledinovement of theback-gage continues until'the back-gage is pressed against the surfaceof the shoe.

This always occurs, in the normal operation of the mechanism, before thecomplef' tion of the forward movement of the camlever, and the last partof this forward movement is therefore idle', the clutch slidingidly overthe bar 54runtil it has reached its foremost position again.

It will be apparent that in the present construction the only free oruncontrolled forward movement of the-back-gage under the influence ofthe Vspring 44 is that which occurs when the back-gage is in retractedposition and which results in bringing the lug 96 into engagement withthe stud 100. Since the back-gage at Ythis time cannot encounter theshoe, there is lno possibility of its producing a hammering actionagainst the shoe, such as may occur when the backgage has a freespring-produced movement at the moment of encountering the work.

The iooper-mechanism is shown particularly in Figs. 2, 6, 7, 8 and 9.The looper 18 is fixed in a carrier 106 which comprises two sleeves 108and 110 connected integrally by a yoke 112. The sleeves are fitted toslide and rock upon a cylindrical bearing-member 114i at theV front ofthe machine. This bearing-member is supported, at the middle, in abracket 116 which is screwed to the frame of the machine. As shown inFig. 8 the bearing-member is fixed yin the bracket by means of acotter-pin 118. The yoke 112 spans the bracket 116, so that theloopercarrier may be moved both longitudinally and rotatively upon thebearing-member,

and the substantial distance which separates the points of engagement ofthe sleeves with thebearing-member insures that there shall be a minimumdegree of lost motion between the parts and a correspondingly highdegree of accuracy in the control of the movements of the looper.

The looper is actuated by cam-mechanism, and its traversing movementsare produced by a cam-lever 120 (Fig. 2) which carries, at its lowerend, a roller engaging apperipheral groove on one of the cam-disks onthe shaft 28. At its upper end the cam-lever is {ixed to aforwardly-extending rock-shaft 122. A lever 124 depends from the forwardend of the rock-shaft, and the lower end of this lever is slotted (Figs.7 and 9) and embraces a block 126 which is pivoted on a stud 128projecting from the yoke 112. Through this arrangement rocking-movementsof the cam-lever are transmitted tov the looper-carrier so as to slidethe latter longitudinally on the bearing-member 114, while, by the useof the block 126 and the slotted end of the lever 124, interference withthe rockingmovements of the loopercarrier is avoided. Therocking-movements of the looper-carrier are produced by a slide 134;(Fig. 2) which moves forwardly and rearwardly in a guideway on the frameof the machine. This slide carries, at its rear end, a roller 136 whichengages a slot in one of the cam-disks, while the forward end of theslide is provided with a stud 188. This stud slides in a sleeve 140 atthe upper end of a stem 14.2, and the stem is slidingly mounted in anarm 1414i projecting upwardly from the yoke 112. The forward andrearward movements of the slide 184C are thus communicated as rockingmovements to the looper-carrier, and the engagement of the stud 138 withthe sleeve 140 is such as not to interfere with the longitudinalmovements of the looper-carrier.

The bearing-member 114 is utilized as means for heating the looper.

For this purpose a U-shaped steam-passage 146 is formed within thebearing-member, this passage being connected, at its ends, with pipesthrough which steam or other heatingfluid may be introduced anddischarged. The heat of the bearing-member is conducted directly throughthe looper-carrier to the loo 9er.

n machines of the type in question wax from the thread frequently dropsand collects upon the channel-guide, so that it is necessary for theoperator to remove it. A feature of the present invention resides in theuse of means by which the channelguide is heated, so that any wax whichfalls vupon it is melted and runs away. The channel-guide 22 is iixed toa plate 150 which, in turn, is adjustably fixed to the lever 152 bywhich the channel-guide is supported and actuated in the same manner asin the machine of said Patent 1,108,560. As a convenient means forheating the channelguide the plate 150 is provided with a sleeve 154e inwhich a spring-pressed plunger 156 moves, the head of this plunger beingin engagement with the end ofthe bearing-member 114, and remaining insuch engagement notwithstanding the transverse Vand foreandaft movementsof the channel-guide- Accordingly heat is conducted directly from thebearing-member 114C through the plunger 156, the plate 150 and the shankof the channel-guide, 'so that the channel-guide and its shank are kepthot by direct metallic conduction.

The machine illustrated herein is provided with a thread-finger 158which correspends, in form and in mode'of operation, with thethread-finger disclosed in said Patent 1,108,560. This thread-finger isfixed adjustably, by means of a screw 160, to a short rock-shaft 162which turns in a bearing` in the bracket 116. iin arm 164 (F ig. 2)

- is fixed to the opposite end of the rock-shaft,

and this arm is connected by a link 166, to a cam-lever 168. Thecam-lever is mounted on a pivot 170 on the frame of the machine, and itcarries a roller 172 which engages a groove in one of the cam-disks onthe shaft 28.

In addition to the usual or main threadY linger 158, the present machineis provided with a supplementary thread-inger 174. It has heenpreviously proposed to employ such a supplementary thread-finger tocoperate with the main threadfinger in drawing out and holding thethread which is later to be given up to the needle, the function of thissupplementary thread-finger being to form a support around whirh threadcan be drawn ybythe main thread-linger, and to thereby prevent thethread so drawn from pulling the channel-flap upwardly and rearwardly toan undue extent, while so insuring ployed for actuating Vthesupplementary thread-finger. For this purpose a slideguide 176 is formedon the bracket 116, as shown in Fig. 7, and the shank of thethreadfinger 174 is arranged to slide in this guide. This shank is alsoprovided with rack-teeth, which mesh with the teeth of a pinion 178which is fixed on the rock-shaft 162 by which the main thread-finger 158is actuated. Accordingly, when the main thread-finger is swung inwardlyin the performance of its thread-drawing function, the supplementarythread-finger is moved downwardly and Y rearwardly, so as to assist indrawingout the thread and pressing and holding down the channel-flap. i

Y Figs. 10 to 13 show two successive positions of the two thread-fingersand other sewing-instrumentalities. In Figs. 10 and 11 the loopei` has.thrown the thread between the ends of the thread-fingers, the needle atthis time being in its retracted position. In Figs. 12 and 13 the partsare shown in a subsequent position, in which the main thread-iingerhasmoved rearwardly and the supplementary thread-finger has moveddownwardly into engagement with the channel-flap 180 of the insole 182.In these latter figures the needle has advancedV and the looper has casta loop of thread into the hook of the needle. Upon the subsequentretraction of the needle the movement of the thread-fingers is reversed,so that the bight of thread held by them is slaclrened and given up tothe needle, thus in the usual manner preventing reeving of the threadthrough the hook of the needle.

TheV improved mechanismV for actuating` the/looper andthe thread fingersis not covered in the claims of this application, but such devices aredescribedV and claimed vin an application. Serial No. 210,849, iiledJanf ilary 8, 1918, which application constitutes a The' division of thepresent application.

Y heating devices, herein described, for heating the looper and thechannel guide are not claimed in this application, but vsuch de-V vicesAconstitute the subj ect-matter claimed in application Serial No.212,042, filed January 16, '1918, said application being a `division ofthis application. Y

While the several features of the invention hereiiibefore described areadapted for conjoint use in a sewing-machine of the waxthread type forsewing inseams, it will be apparent that they are not necessarily alwaysused in conjunction,V and that certain features of the invention may beapplicable for use in machines of other types. The invention is not, ingeneral, limited to the embodiment thereof hereinbefore described andillustrated in the accompanying drawings, but it may-be embodiedin'other forms within the scope of the following claims.

What is claimed is Y 1. In a sewing-machine having, in combination, aback-gage; feeding-means; and actuating mechanism for the back-gage;said mechanism being constructed and arranged to initiate the retractingmovement of the back-gage always at aY predetermined point in the cycleof op rations of the machine, regardless of the thickness of the work,and to return the back-gage into engagement with the work by acontrolled advancing movement. Y

2. A sewing-machine having, in combina'- tion, a back-gage;feeding-means; and actuating mechanism for the back-gage; said mechanismbeing constructed and arranged to initiate the retracting movement ofthe back-gage always at a predetermined point in the cycle of operationsof the machine. retract the back-gage through a constant predetermineddistance; and return the backgage into engagement with the woi'lr by acontrolled advancing movement. y

3. A sewing-machine having, in .combination, al back-gage;feeding-means; a spring tending to advance thev back-gage intoengagement with the worlr; powermechanism cooperating positively, withthe back-gage to control the latter partV of its advancing movementunder the influence of Y the spring; and clutch-mechanism actuated b vthe power-mechanism and coperating Y with the back-gage to initiate itsretreating tending to advance the back-gage into enl gagement with thework; power-mechanism cooperating positively with thebacl-gage tocontrol its advancing-movement; Vand power-operated clutch-mechanismcoperating with the back-gage to produce the retriating movementthereof. f l

A sewing-machine having, in combination, a bacl -gageg feeding-means;andac`- mating-mechanism, for the back-gage, conf structed and arrangedto producev first. a power-controlled retracting-movement, then a freespring-controlled partialv advancing movement, and then apower-controlled final Y 'advancing movement of the back-gage,

and then an alle range, and to control positivelyv the f .fatter part orthe meneur-,i m Je clit or 1 the each-edge.

l. il sewing-machine having, in combination, a bach-gage; feeding-means;a spring tending` to advance the bach-gage; powermechanism 'foractuating the back-gage; connections, between the bach-gage and thepowerneehanism', including` abutments engagoable in a direction toarrest and control the advancing movement of the backage, and a clutchoperable to retract the ack-gage; and means for tripping the clutcasubstantially at the end of its rearvva l movement so as to relinquishthe bache to the control et said springand il a ut ments.

8. A sewing-machine having, in combination, a back-gage; feeding-means;and a power-actuated coperating clutch-device with the back-gage andconstructed and operating' to retract the back-gage but to release thesame at the rear end of the path or" movement et the clutch-device.

9. fr sewing-machine having, in combina- Lien, a back-gage;feeding-means; and a power-actuated clutch-device coperating with theback-gage and constructed and operating` to retract the back-gage but torelease the same at each end of the pathof movement of theclutch-device.

10. A sewing-machine having, in combination, a back-gage;'feeding-means; a spring tending to advance the back-gage; apower-actuated clutch-device constructed and arranged to retract theback-gage and to release the same at the forward endl of the path oi"operation of the clutch-devi e; and power-operated means for controllingthe advance of the back-gage'when so released by the clutch-device.

11. A. sewing-machine having, in Vcombination, a back-gage;feeding-means; and a power-operated clutch-device and positively-acting`power-actuated means both operable to retract the bach-gage.

Y sev .gg-machine having, in combination, back-gage; feeding-means;yielding means for advancing; the back-gage; and a power-operatedclntchdevice and positivelyacting power-actuated means both operable tecontrol jdie advancing movement of the hack-gage.

1.3. A sewing-machine having, in combination, back-gage; feeding-means;a poweroperated member; lost-motion connections, between said member andthe back-gage, for controlling the movements of the latter in bothdirections; nected with and actuated by said poweroperated member, forretracting the backgage.

lll. fr sewing-machine having, in combinae bach-gage; arearwardly-extending lever carrying the back-gage; a device for ,fjuiding` the rear end of said lever; a second lever mounted on astationary givot, at its upper end, and pivoted, at its lower end, to anintermediate point on the first-mentioned lever; andactuating-mechanism, connected with the second lever, for swinging thelatter to cause advancing,` and retreating movements oithe back-gage.

15. fr sewing-machine having, in combination, a back-gage; arearwardly-extendingv lever carrying the back-gage; a device for guidingthe rear end oi' said lever; a second lever mounted on a stationarypivot, at its upper end, and pivoted, at its lower end, to anintermediate point on the firstmentioned lever; and actuating-mechanism,connected'with the second lever, for swinging` the latter to causeadvancing and retreating movements of the back-gage, the connectionbetween the two levers being l adjustable to vary the height of thebackgage.

16. A sewing-machine having, in combination, a back-gage; arearwardly-extending lever carrying the back-gage; a device for guidingthe rear end of said lever; a second lever mounted on a stationarypivot, at its upper end, and pivoted, at ite lower end, to anintermediate point on the vErst-mentioned lever; andactuating-mechanism, connected with the second lever, for swinging thelatter to cause advancing and retreating,71 movements of the back-gage,the connection between the actuating-mechanism and said second leverbeing adjustable longitudinally et the lever to var v the amplitude otthe movements imparted to the bach-gage.

17. A sewing-machine having, in combination, a back-gage; power-operatedactuwith; newer-operated actuating-meclmmsin' including a clutch device;a link connected to saidmechaniem; and connections, between said linkand said lever, adjustable along the lever to var7 the length of theleverarm through which the linl'acts upon the lever.

19. A sewing-machine having, in combination, a back-gage; a slide;power-mechaand a clutch-device, con-v nism for moving the slide;connections, between the back-gage and tlie'slide, including a lever,and L link connecting the lever and the slide; and ay power-operatedclutchdevice, for retreating the back-gage, operable on said link.

20. A sewing-machine having, inv combination, a back-gage; and actuatingmechanism, vfor the beck-gage, comprising a reciprocating member, aonelireetion eluineli- 10 device coperating with seid member7poXver-Ineehanisin 'for reciprocating the. clutch-device, and stationaryuripeclevices for` tripping,` the Clutch-device near both ende 0f itspath 0f movement.

ANDREW EPPLER.

